You guys know I’m always looking for ways to make this particular process easier. I’ve researched all kinds of ways, and previously was using the stickytape or page-marker flag method but I think I found a way that’s even easier and doesn’t involve sticking tape on your face. Score!
The biggest obstacle I face when doing this is getting both of the angles looking similar (remember, they’re sisters, not twins!) on both eyes. If they’re TOO different, you can look a bit strange!
Bioderma micellar water, pointy q-tip, Sephora matte black shadow, Kat Von D Ink Liner in “Trooper”, Real Techniques angled liner brush
All you’ll need for this trick is some matte black eyeshadow (a lot of palettes will have one of these, or you can buy an extremely cheap one), a slanted or flat eyeliner brush (not a pointed one) and your choice of either gel or liquid liner. It’d also be handy to have some makeup remover or micellar water and a cotton bud (q-tip – gotta get used to the US words!). If you have those sharp/pointy-ended q-tips that’s even better!
The best way I have found to get the angles looking “right” is to basically continue the line of your lower lashline. Just pretend it keeps on going up towards the tail of your eyebrow.
So for this trick, what we are basically doing is drawing a “guide-line” in the most literal sense of the word.
It’s up to you if you want to do this before or after your foundation routine. Sometimes when I know I’m gonna be wearing a tonne of eye makeup that will have a lot of fallout, I will do my eye makeup first. Again, totally up to you.
Pop some primer or concealer on your eyelids first if that’s a thing you do. Give it a bit to dry, then grab your slanted or straight brush (doesn’t really matter I just find slanted ones a bit easier to use) and lightly press the very ends of the bristles into the black eyeshadow.
Tap off the excess and press it off a bit too, either onto your hand or on a tissue etc. I just pressed it off onto my background paper. You don’t want your brush to be too loaded.
Now, with your eyes open (important) and without pulling your eye skin around, use the flat bristle-end of the brush to draw a line from the very outer corner of your eyelid towards your brow, ensuring you “continue” the line of your lower lid. I have found the easiest way to do this is to do a “stamping” motion. Stamp the shadow on and then, if you want the line a little longer, drag it lightly up and out continuing that same line.
It’s true, I’m not wearing a skerrick of other makeup. SOZ NOT SOZ
Close up! You can see the line basically follows my lower lashline.
Put the brush down and check your line. If you are happy with it, hooray! That’s the hard part over. If you’re not, dip the end of your q-tip into your makeup remover and remove the line you made, or part of it if you just made it too thick (this is where those pointy ones come in handy). Easy peasy – it’s just eyeshadow, not waterproof liner, it won’t make a mess. No biggie at all! This is the true genius of this method. It’s so easy to fix.
Note: If you want, you can actually draw in the entire eyeliner path – not just the wing line. I just do this bit, because it’s the part I really struggle with.
Repeat for the other eye.Once this is done, you can use your actual eyeliner to go over the line you drew. Start with the wing line, then keeping nice and close to the upper lashline and starting from the midpoint(ish, personal preference), use small strokes of eyeliner to meet the wing line.
As mentioned earlier, I really feel that it’s quite important to not pull your eyelid around or squint hard while you’re doing this. At some point you will probably have to at least partially close your eye to line the upper lashline but if you squint too much or pull your eyelid around, you will really warp the line that you’re trying to make. This might seem like stating the obvious, but it was a huge realisation for me, I’ve always pulled my eye around like a crazyperson, trying to make the skin tight so the line is straight. ??? Anyway..
I found this amazing graphic on J’Adore Glitz‘s blog (whether she made the diagram or not is unclear) which explains what I mean quite well. These are the lines you want to draw in.
In the above graphic, she draws in the upper line of the wing immediately after the lower line. That’s fine of course, and a lot of people do it that way. I just don’t because I like to make it gradually thicker rather than committing myself to a wing that might be “too much”. I also think that bringing the liner all the way to the inner corner like she has can make one look a bit intense, and doesn’t really suit that many people. Unless you have quite wide set eyes, in which case go nuts! Do you, boo!
That’s pretty much it! I hope this was helpful and my bare-faced, hair-not-even-combed visage did not alarm you too much.
Next blog will be my April favourites and I am really excited about it! Lots to talk about. Stay tuned!